Best Camping Hammocks: Single, Double & With Bug Nets
The best camping hammock for you is the one that matches your sleeping style and trip length, not the one with the most features. A single hammock saves weight for backpacking, a double gives you room to sprawl (or share), and an integrated bug net solves the biggest annoyance of sleeping outside. But the most important decision factor is the ridgeline—a fixed cord that sets the correct sag angle so you sleep flat diagonally rather than curved like a banana. Without it, you’ll waste time guessing and likely wake up stiff. Below, we break down the trade-offs in weight, space, and cost so you can pick the right one without wasting money on features you won’t use.
Quick answer
If you need one versatile hammock for most trips, a single hammock with a detachable bug net is the sweet spot—light enough for backpacking yet roomy for car camping. For couples or side-sleepers who spread out, a double hammock with an integrated net is worth the extra pound. Avoid “all-in-one” kits that skimp on suspension straps (cheap tree straps can damage bark and fail quickly). Prioritize a hammock with a structural ridgeline; it sets the sag angle automatically so your hammock sleeps flat the first time, every time.
What this means for your next buy: If you’re under 5’10” and backpack more than 5 miles, go with a single 9-foot hammock without a built-in net and add a separate bug sock only when needed. If you drive to camp and value lounging space, a double 10-foot hammock with a zippered net is the safer choice. If you get both wrong, you’ll either carry unnecessary weight or end up with a too-short hammock that forces a shallow diagonal and causes shoulder discomfort.
Quick decision flow for camping hammocks
Run through these five checks before you buy. Answer each one—if you hit a “no,” you’ll know which feature to search for next.
- Sleep position fit: Can you lie diagonally (feet up, head down) without your knees bent? Measure the hammock length from gathered end to gathered end. For adults under 5’10”, 9 feet is the minimum; over 5’10” need 10 feet or more. Lay it flat and use a tape measure to verify—many budget hammocks are actually shorter than advertised.
- Bug protection: Does the net zip fully around the hammock (no gaps) or is it a removable sock? Integrated zippered nets are more reliable than loose netting that sags onto your face. Test the zipper pull—if it feels flimsy, expect it to jam after a season.
- Tree strap width: Are the straps at least 1 inch wide? Thinner straps dig into bark and are illegal in many parks. 1.5–2-inch straps are best. Check the product description; if it says “paracord” or “rope” anywhere, skip it.
- Suspension ease: Do you have to tie knots, or does it use carabiners and daisy chains? For car camping, knotless systems save time; for backpacking, a whoopie-sling setup shaves ounces but requires a learning curve.
- Ridgeline present: Does the hammock come with a ridgeline? Without one, you’ll be guessing the sag angle and likely sleeping like a banana. A fixed ridgeline fixes that—look for one that’s at least 8.5 feet if the hammock is 9 feet, or 9.5 feet for a 10-foot hammock.
If you can say yes to all five, you’ve found a solid contender. If not, move on. The ridgeline is the dealbreaker—skip it and you’ll buy a separate one anyway.
Comparison framework
Hammocks fall into three main categories for camping. Here’s how they stack up for weight, roominess, and bug protection. The key trade-off: more room and built-in nets mean more weight and bulk.
| Feature | Single (no net) | Single + bug net | Double + bug net |
|---|---|---|---|
| Typical weight | 10–14 oz | 18–24 oz | 24–32 oz |
| Packed size | Fist-size | Soda can | Large water bottle |
| Sleep capacity | 1 person | 1 person | 1–2 people |
| Room to diagonally lie | Tight under 5’10” | Good under 6′ | Excellent, up to 6’4″ |
| Bug protection | Separate net required | Built-in zippered or fold-over | Built-in zippered |
| Typical price range | $30–$60 | $60–$110 | $70–$130 |
Practical implication: If you want the lightest possible kit, a single without a net saves 8–10 ounces compared to a single with a net. That’s a meaningful difference for a multi-day hike. For basecamp, that ounce savings doesn’t matter—you’ll value the convenience of a net already attached. So your trip type should drive your choice, not the price tag.
Best-fit picks by use case
Solo backpacker who wants the lightest setup
Pick a single hammock with a separate bug sock or no net and add a lightweight net only when needed. Look for a hammock around 10–12 oz with a fixed ridgeline and tree straps under 3 oz. Many budget options omit a ridgeline—skip those, because you’ll end up sleeping curved and need to buy a ridgeline add-on anyway. A good choice: models around $50–$70 from cottage brands that include a ridgeline and 1-inch straps out of the box.
Verification step: Before buying, check the hammock’s flat length by reading the specs (not the “fits up to 6’2” claim). If it lists 9 feet, measure your own height against that. Lay on the floor with your arms above your head—if your heels and hands touch walls 9 feet apart, you’ll have enough diagonal room. If not, look for a 10-foot hammock.
What can go wrong: A hammock that’s too short for you will force a shallow diagonal angle. You’ll sleep with your knees bent and wake up with a sore lower back. This is the most common mistake first-time buyers make—don’t trust “one size fits all” claims.
Couples or side-sleepers camping at a drive-in site
A double hammock with a zippered bug net is worth the extra pound. The extra width (around 10 feet of fabric) lets you sleep at a true diagonal without feeling cramped. Integrated nets zip shut completely, which beats rigging a separate net that leaves gaps. Expect to pay $80–$120. Common pitfalls: some double hammocks come with a very short ridgeline (under 8 feet) that makes the fabric too tight—check the length is at least 9 feet. Also, a double hammock is not a two-person sleeping bag; two adults who toss and turn will rock each other all night. For overnight couples sleeping, two singles with separate suspension works better.
All-in-one bug-proof sleep system for any trip
If you want a single solution that works for car camping and the occasional overnight backpack, a single hammock with a fully integrated zippered bug net and a built-in ridgeline is the best compromise. It’s about 22–25 oz, which is fine for short carries. The key downside: the integrated net can’t be removed for lounging during the day. Some brands offer a zip-off net; that’s the ideal design. Look for a model where the net zips off and leaves a clean open hammock—that way you get the best of both worlds without buying two setups.
Trade-offs to know
The cheaper the hammock, the more you’ll spend later. A $25 hammock from a big-box store usually has no ridgeline, skinny straps that damage trees, and a bug net that’s basically a sheer curtain. To make it sleepable, you’ll need to buy a ridgeline ($10), wider straps ($15), and a separate net ($20–$30). That’s $70 and a bag full of mismatched parts. Spending $70–$90 on a complete kit from a reputable brand (with ridgeline, straps, and net included) saves money and hassle.
Double hammocks are not two-person sleeping bags. Even a 10-foot double hammock is tight for two adults who toss and turn. It works best for napping, lounging, or cuddling. If you plan to sleep two people all night, consider two single hammocks with separate suspension instead—each sleeper gets their own flat lay, and you don’t wake up when your partner shifts.
Bug nets are not optional in most of the US. Mosquitoes, no-see-ums, and biting flies are active from April through October in nearly every region. A net isn’t just comfort—it’s prevention against infections and sleepless nights. If you camp in buggy areas, prioritize a hammock that either includes a net or has a reliable attachment system for a separate one. The “just use a sleeping bag” hack doesn’t work; bugs bite through thin fabric.
Specific mismatch to watch for: A hammock with a ridgeline that’s too short for your height (under 8.5 feet for a 9-foot hammock) forces the fabric too taut, creating shoulder squeeze. You’ll feel pinched along your upper back within an hour. If you’re over 5’10”, test a double hammock’s ridgeline length or buy a separate longer ridgeline—otherwise you’ll end up returning it.
Related questions
How do I hang a camping hammock without trees?
You can use a hammock stand (adds 10–15 lbs) or suspend from posts, rock outcrops, or vehicle roof racks with appropriate straps. Metal poles are not safe to wrap straps around. If you’re car camping, a portable stand is your best bet.
What length hammock do I need?
For most adults under 5’10”, a 9-foot hammock is fine. For taller sleepers, 10 or 11 feet provides a flatter diagonal lie. Shorter hammocks force you into a banana curve that causes back pain overnight.
Should I get a double hammock for solo use?
Yes, if you want maximum lounging space and don’t mind the extra weight. Many solo hangers prefer a double for the room to spread out. Just be aware it weighs 8–12 oz more than a single.
Can I use a camping hammock in winter?
Yes, but you need an underquilt (or closed-cell foam pad) because compression of the sleeping bag underneath you kills insulation. A top quilt and underquilt are the standard cold-weather hammock setup.
Camping Bob has spent over 20 years camping across the US — from BLM dispersed sites in the Southwest to KOA campgrounds in the Pacific Northwest. He writes practical, no-nonsense guides to help fellow campers get outdoors with confidence.