Installing Eyelets in Tarpaulin: A Step-by-Step Guide

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Quick answer

• Get the right tools: eyelet kit, hammer, cutting tool, marking tool.
• Choose your spot: mark where you want the eyelet.
• Cut the hole: make it just big enough for the eyelet.
• Place the eyelet halves: one on each side of the tarp.
• Punch it together: use the hammer and anvil to secure the eyelet.
• Test the pull: make sure it’s snug and won’t rip.
• Repeat for all eyelets.

What to check first (do this before you drive out)

Before you even think about punching holes, let’s get the lay of the land. This isn’t just about your tarp; it’s about making sure your setup works and doesn’t cause headaches later.

• Tarp Material and Condition: Is your tarp tough enough for eyelets? Some cheap ones can tear easily. Check for existing damage – you don’t want to add more stress to a weak spot. A good quality, reinforced tarp is your best bet.

• Eyelet Kit Compatibility: Not all eyelet kits are created equal. Make sure the kit you have is designed for the thickness and type of material your tarp is made of. Some kits are for fabric, others for heavier vinyl. Getting this wrong means a loose eyelet or a ripped tarp.

• Tools at the Ready: You’ll need a hammer, a stable surface for the anvil (a sturdy block of wood or concrete works), and a way to cut the hole – usually a sharp knife or scissors. A measuring tape or ruler helps for spacing.

• Workspace: Find a flat, solid surface to work on. You don’t want your tarp sliding around, and you need a firm base for hammering.

Step-by-step (field workflow)

Alright, let’s get down to business. This is how you properly install those eyelets so your tarp stays put.

1. Lay out your tarp: Spread the tarp flat on your chosen workspace. Make sure it’s smooth and free of wrinkles where you plan to install the eyelets.

• What “good” looks like: The tarp is flat, and you can easily see the area you want to reinforce.
• Common mistake: Working with a bunched-up or folded tarp. This leads to uneven placement and potential damage. Smooth it out first.

2. Mark the eyelet location: Decide exactly where you want each eyelet. Use a pen or chalk to make a small mark. Measure if you need even spacing.

• What “good” looks like: Clear, precise marks indicating the center of each eyelet.
• Common mistake: Guessing the location. This results in unevenly spaced eyelets that look sloppy and can weaken the tarp. Measure twice, mark once.

3. Prepare the eyelet halves: Separate the two parts of an eyelet. One part has a post, the other a washer.

• What “good” looks like: You have two distinct pieces ready to go.
• Common mistake: Mixing up the parts or losing one. Keep them together until you’re ready to use them.

4. Position the anvil: Place the anvil (the flat base piece of your eyelet kit) on your stable work surface.

• What “good” looks like: A solid, immovable base.
• Common mistake: Using a wobbly or soft surface. This will make hammering difficult and can lead to bent eyelets.

5. Cut the hole: Using your sharp knife or scissors, carefully cut a small hole at your marked spot. The hole should be just slightly smaller than the diameter of the eyelet post.

• What “good” looks like: A clean, round hole that snugly fits the eyelet post.
• Common mistake: Cutting too large a hole. This will prevent the eyelet from gripping the tarp properly and can lead to tearing. Start small and enlarge if needed.

6. Insert the eyelet post: Push the post part of the eyelet through the hole from the “outside” of the tarp (the side you want the visible post to be on).

• What “good” looks like: The post is centered in the hole, with the flat washer part sitting on the underside of the tarp.
• Common mistake: Forcing it or getting it crooked. Ensure the post goes straight through.

7. Place the washer: Position the washer over the post on the underside of the tarp. Make sure it’s centered.

• What “good” looks like: The washer is flat against the tarp, covering the base of the post.
• Common mistake: Not centering the washer. This can lead to uneven pressure when you hammer.

8. Position for hammering: Place the tarp, with the eyelet halves in place, over the anvil. The post should be resting in the anvil’s indentation.

• What “good” looks like: The eyelet post is firmly seated in the anvil’s recess.
• Common mistake: Not aligning it correctly. The eyelet needs to be perfectly positioned for a clean crimp.

9. Hammer the eyelet: Take the top die (the part that shapes the eyelet) and place it over the post. Strike the top of the die firmly and squarely with your hammer.

• What “good” looks like: The post is cleanly crimped, forming a secure, round eyelet.
• Common mistake: Hitting too lightly or at an angle. This will result in a loose or deformed eyelet. A solid, direct hit is key.

10. Inspect the eyelet: Gently pull on the eyelet to ensure it’s securely attached. Check for any sharp edges or loose parts.

• What “good” looks like: The eyelet is tight, smooth, and looks like a factory-installed grommet.
• Common mistake: Skipping the inspection. A weak eyelet will fail when you need it most.

11. Repeat for remaining eyelets: Move to the next marked spot and repeat steps 2 through 10 until all eyelets are installed.

• What “good” looks like: A series of uniformly installed, strong eyelets all around your tarp.
• Common mistake: Rushing the process. Consistency is important for a professional and durable result.

Common mistakes (and what happens if you ignore them)

Mistake	What it causes	Fix
Cutting the hole too large	Eyelet won’t grip, tears easily, fails under load	Start small, enlarge carefully. Use a new kit if unsure.
Not using a stable surface for anvil	Bent eyelets, uneven crimp, difficult hammering	Use a solid block of wood, concrete, or a dedicated workbench.
Hammering too lightly or at an angle	Loose eyelet, deformation, potential failure	Use a firm, direct strike. Practice on scrap material first.
Not centering the washer	Uneven pressure, potential for off-center crimp	Take an extra second to align it perfectly before hammering.
Using the wrong size eyelet kit	Won’t fit, tears tarp, weak connection	Match the kit to your tarp material thickness and type.
Not smoothing out the tarp first	Uneven placement, inaccurate cuts, poor eyelet seating	Always lay the tarp flat and remove wrinkles before marking.
Forcing the eyelet post through hole	Rips the material, misaligns the eyelet	Ensure the hole is just the right size for a snug fit.
Skipping the final pull test	Installing a weak eyelet that will fail prematurely	Always give each eyelet a firm tug to confirm it’s secure.
Using a dull cutting tool	Ragged holes, difficulty cutting, potential tarp damage	Keep your knife or scissors sharp for clean, precise cuts.
Not checking tarp condition beforehand	Installing eyelets on a damaged area, accelerating failure	Inspect your tarp for rips or weak spots before you start.

Decision rules (simple if/then)

• If your tarp is thin vinyl, then use a grommet kit specifically designed for vinyl.
• If you’re unsure about the tarp thickness, then err on the side of a kit for slightly thicker material.
• If you don’t have a proper anvil, then find the most solid, flat surface you can, like a concrete paver.
• If you’re installing eyelets for high-stress applications (like holding up a shade sail), then reinforce the area with extra patches first.
• If your hammer strikes are producing a ragged edge, then you’re likely not hitting hard enough or squarely.
• If the eyelet post is wobbling after hammering, then it wasn’t crimped correctly, and you may need to replace it.
• If you’re installing eyelets in a permanent structure, then consider using heavy-duty, rust-resistant eyelets.
• If you’re working in cold weather, then be aware that some plastics can become brittle and may crack more easily.
• If you’re installing many eyelets, then take breaks to avoid fatigue, which can lead to mistakes.
• If the eyelet washer is larger than the area you’re reinforcing, then consider using a smaller washer or a different type of fastener.

FAQ

Q: Can I install eyelets on any kind of tarp?

A: Generally, yes, but the material thickness and type matter. Heavy-duty tarps are best. Very thin or stretchy materials might tear.

Q: How far apart should I space the eyelets?

A: It depends on the tarp’s purpose. For general tie-downs, 1-2 feet apart is common. For high-stress areas, closer spacing might be needed.

Q: What if I don’t have a special tool for cutting the hole?

A: A sharp utility knife or heavy-duty scissors can work. The key is a clean cut that’s just the right size.

Q: My eyelets feel loose after hammering. What did I do wrong?

A: You likely didn’t hammer hard enough or squarely. The post needs to be fully crimped to grip the material and washer.

Q: Can I reuse an eyelet once it’s installed?

A: It’s usually not recommended. Removing an installed eyelet often damages the tarp material, and re-installing it will likely be weak.

Q: What’s the difference between an eyelet and a grommet?

A: In this context, they’re often used interchangeably. A grommet is typically a two-part metal ring that reinforces a hole. What we’re installing here fits that description.

Q: How do I know if I have the right size eyelet kit?

A: The kit should specify the material thickness it’s designed for. If the post is too long, it won’t crimp well. If it’s too short, it won’t go through.

What this page does NOT cover (and where to go next)

• Specific types of heavy-duty industrial grommets and their specialized installation tools.
• Repairing damaged eyelets or grommets on existing tarps.
• Advanced tarp reinforcement techniques like webbing or extra banding.
• Choosing the best tarp material for specific outdoor applications.
• Using tarps for structural purposes (e.g., building temporary shelters beyond simple tie-downs).